Lucknow, the capital of the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, reflects on the Islamic influence of the Mughal Empire which had a presence in India for hundreds of years. Bara Imambara is one of its witnesses that still stands strong and proud.
I stepped into Bara Imambara to witness what was left after the end of the Mughal Empirein Lucknow. After all, the Imambara became synonymous with this city, known as the city of Nawabs.
“The Mughal Ruler at Delhi appointed their Governor to look after the province of Awadh, hence the said Governor was a deputy or a representative of the Ruler of Delhi and was known as ‘Nawab’,” said Shamim A. Aarzoo, founder and secretary of The LUCKNOW Society, via email. Awadh is now part of Uttar Pradesh.
He then explained that the effect of Islamic rule has been very prominent in Lucknow after its formation as capital by the Nawab. Such an impressionis still visible through the architecture of that period.
I observe that Bara Imambara incorporates Islamic elements in its architecture as I ascend the stairs and walk through another gate to reach the main part of the complex. The structure of the gate in front of me blends Mughal and Rajput architectures—an Indo-Islamic style with Persian influences and an Indo-Aryan style found in northern India respectively—as well asa Gothic character that brought the construction to life.
“Since the Nawabs appointed at Lucknow by the Mughal Emperor had their origins in Iran, this explains why they carried with them all the rituals and customs of their faith and why various places of religious importance came into existence,” said Aarzoo. “Bara Imambara being one of them. The significance of Bara Imambara was more religious in nature to the Nawabs of Awadh than the Mughal Rulers themselves.
”Bara Imambara was built in 1784 under the initiative of Asaf-ud-Daula, ruler of Awadh. Being a Nawab himself, he came up with aplanto provide employment for both citizens and noble people that had been badly affected by famine.
I proceeded to Imam Bargah, the main hall of the Imambara. “The main hall is for religious gatherings,” said guide Narayn Sherma. Shia Muslims attend the gathering that occurs for 68 days in one year. Imam Bargah is described as the center for sorrow and mourning to rememberthe sacrifice made by Imam Hussain, grandson of Prophet Muhammad, in Karbala, Iraq. Imam Hussain together with 72 family members and friends died to protect the Islamic teachings as told by the Prophet and protect humanity from corrupt yet oppressive rulers.
Lots of local visitors are there as I enter the main hall.There is a picture of Asaf-ud-Daula placed on the wall. Among the linesis written that if a mosque is the biggest place of reverence, then the Imambara is also a respectful dwelling.
As I went further, exhibits are put on display. One of the displays, a woman visitor tells me, was related to Imam Hussein. Another exhibit, a different visitor wearing white shirt, pants, and cap resembling men’s Islamic clothing says, is in remembrance of a sacred Muslim site.
I headed outside the hall and walk past Asifi Masjid, the mosque built by the Nawabs at Bara Imambara. Within walking distance from the main gateway, I spotted some horses. Known as tonga, riding a horse and two-wheeled cart helps people to get around the old part of the city.
It is advised to ask the tongawalla or tonga driver courteously before taking the ride, as this city is famous for its tehzeeb or etiquette. The etiquette part is related to the Urdu language during the Nawabera. This reminds me of what Narayn highlighted earlier: today people in Lucknow are speaking softly and with salutation. To say the least, the Nawabs are still pretty much present, figuratively, in Lucknow.
TRAVEL POINTERS
♦ How to Get There:
For those looking to fly direct, there are three weekly flights from Singapore to Lucknow, with a flight duration of around 4.5 hours. While in India, Lucknow can be reached by an approximately 1-hour flight from Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi. Alternatively, a train from Delhi heads to Lucknow daily. The Swarna Shatabdi Express train, number 12004, departs from New Delhi railway station at 6:10 a.m. and arrives at Lucknow Junction at 12:40 p.m.
♦ Getting to Bara Imambara
From Lucknow’s Chaudhary Charan Singh International Airport, a prepaid taxi should be considered, as there is no direct public transportation from the airport to Bara Imambara. It needs around 45 minutesby taxi to get there. From Lucknow Junction, it will generally take half an hour to Bara Imambara witha prepaid taxi. Similar to the airport case, there is no direct transportation to the Imambara.
♦ Entrance Fee
It is free of charge to visit Bara Imambara. Since there are several heritage monuments near Bara Imambara, visitors may opt for a combined pass that costs INR 500. The pass gives access to the Bara Imambara complex, Shahi Baoli at the Imambara,Chhota Imambara, and the Hussainabad Picture Gallery.
♦ Guide for the Labyrinth
There is more to explore at Bara Imambara, including the BhoolBhulaiya or labyrinth on the first floor of the Imambara. However, visitors have togo with a guide to be allowed in. The guide rate starts from INR 100 for up to 2 people, INR 125 for 3 to 5 people, and INR 175 for 6 to 10 people. If a guide asks for a higher fee, guests are encouraged to make a complaint.
Photos by Randy Mulyanto
