BETWEEN MOUNTAINS AND RIVER: CHATTANOOGA BY CHANCE

Walnut Street Bridge
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Nestled between the Appalachian foothills and the Tennessee River, and once a sleepy mountain town, Chattanooga has emerged as one of the southeastern United States’ most compelling destinations as a quieter and more scenic alternative to other nearby hotspots.

Photos by: Diana O’Reilly

For many years, Chattanooga was seen as a quiet escape for weekenders from Nashville and Atlanta, both roughly a two-hour drive away. Today, it serves as a vibrant hub for the Tennessee–Georgia–Alabama tri-state region, offering travellers a refreshing alternative to more crowded destinations like Pigeon Forge (home to Dollywood), Nashville’s famed country and western music scene, or the soulful legacy of Memphis’s. 

For outdoor enthusiasts, Chattanooga has quietly held its place as a natural launching point for exploring the Great Smoky Mountain range and the broader Appalachian landscape, and during the pandemic, the city’s appeal surged. This city of fewer than 600,000 residents, with its endless supply of trails, parks and water activities, draws wave after wave of visitors from all over America seeking a combination of Southern charm, nature and a healthy dose of modernity.

Walnut Street Bridge 

From the aquarium, walk about 2 minutes and you find yourself at the iconic Walnut Street pedestrian bridge, whose bright blue color and unique silhouette has become the unofficial symbol of the city. Built in 1890, this 724 m long bridge connects Chattanooga’s downtown to the Northshore, as well to an over 25 km paved Riverwalk alongside the Tennessee river and no visit to Chattanooga is complete without a walk across the bridge at sunset. For free entertainment, listen to the local musicians perform folk music on saxophone and strings for the passersby. 

Tennessee Aquarium, Coolidge Park, Northshore

Tennessee Aquarium 

When recommending places in the city, the aquarium is always top of the list. Not only for its significance, but ultimately for its location on the Tennessee riverfront. This non-profit aquarium is divided into two separate exhibits: The River and Ocean Journey. It holds a total of about 1.1 million gallons of water and over 12,000 animals from 800 species. Allowing you to come face-to-face with feisty otters, touch a stingray, watch the penguins, and see tons of turtles. There are even lemurs and free-roaming butterflies in the tropical exhibit. 

Coolidge Park

Across the Walnut Street bridge, you arrive at another much-loved public space: Coolidge Park. Before becoming a park in 1999, this area was just a piece of forgotten industrial land along the Tennessee River. Today, this 7-acre space includes an interactive water fountain and splash pad, rock climbing station, an event pavilion, picnic benches, and a 100-year-old restored antique carousel, all free of charge (except for the carousel, which costs 1$ per ride). Coolidge Park is also connected to Renaissance Park, another previously derelict site along the Tennessee River that has been transformed into a thriving, naturalized wetland habitat where local dwellers like river turtles, groundhogs, and blue herons are regularly spotted. 

Northshore 

Northshore’s Frazier Avenue is a fun area to dine, shop, and drink, but it is especially popular amongst families for its kid-friendly spots and locally-owned favorites like Clumpies ice cream, Winder Binder vintage records and books, or Locals Only for locally sourced souvenirs and keepsakes. For brunch (and more ice cream), head to Milk and Honey where they serve southern staples like Chicken and Waffles, while Frazier and Dime and Big Chill are must-visits as classic American bars. 

Southside Historic District, Ruby Falls Cave, Main Street Farmers Market

Southside Historic District

On the other side of the river, Chattanooga’s Southside is considered “historic” due to its role as a 19th-century industrial centre, railroad, and African American cultural hub, anchored by the former Terminal Station (now the Chattanooga Choo Choo museum) and Warehouse Row whose former factories have been turned into an upscale shopping center. 

Head to East Main Street and shop at the amusingly named “Poor Taste” vintage shop, sample some local cheese at Bleu Fox Cheese Shop and follow the crowd to Chattanooga’s favorite artisan bakery, Niedlov’s, for freshly made pastries and sandwiches on their cozy patio. For a nightcap, Southside happens to be where Chattanooga’s best bars and breweries are located, like STIR, Hello Monty and Oddstory Brewery.

Ruby Falls Cave on Lookout Mountain

Just a 6-minute drive from downtown Chattanooga, another worthy visit is Lookout Mountain’s Ruby Falls, made popular as it is home to the tallest underground waterfall open to the public in the United States. To see them, you first descend 26 stories underground by elevator into the cavern before a guided tour takes you along a path surrounded by ‘living’ rock formations. Back at the surface, you can also enjoy spectacular views of the Tennessee River, mountains, and rolling valleys from the historic Lookout Mountain Tower. 

07 | Main Street Farmers Market 

From April to December and held every Saturday and Sunday, Chattanooga’s Farmers Market is the unofficial local hangout. With more than 200 vendors, this semi-outdoor market ranges from locally sourced fresh produce, homemade baked goods, pottery, and food trucks, to artisanal arts and crafts. It is by far the region’s largest producer-only marketplace, bringing together some of Tennessee’s best small businesses and farmers and in July, this is where you can find fresh peaches that are bussed in from neighboring Georgia. 

My Favorite Chattanooga (Easy) Trails and Hikes 

Chattanooga offers over 150 miles of hiking trails on public land within 15 minutes of downtown, plus nearly 100 miles of additional greenways and park trails. With a toddler in tow, however, I naturally gravitate towards the shorter walks that can be as short as one mile yet offers just as dramatic and rewarding experience.

Sunset Rock Viewpoint, Rainbow Lake, North Chickamauga Creek Blue Hole Trail

Sunset Rock Viewpoint, Lookout Mountain offers the most breathtaking views of the Tennessee River and the valley. There are dozens of trails that get you up to this point, which are all between 5 to 6km km long, but the easiest way to reach it is by driving into the Lookout Mountain neighborhood and parking at the Sunset Rock Viewpoint for a 300-meter-long hike.

Rainbow Lake is one of the most rewarding yet family-friendly treks in Chattanooga. Save for a few rocky parts (manageable for older kids, but smaller children may need some assistance) the path main is mostly very smooth and wide. As you descend to Rainbow Lake, towering oak, hemlock, and maples guide the way as their leaves make a calming rustle. In total, the trail is a 3.5km long loop, but I find hiking down the path into the incredibly scenic Middle Creek is more than enough for a quick 30 minute hike.

North Chickamauga Creek Blue Hole Trail (Cumberland Trail State Park) a.k.a. the (Justin P. Wilson) Cumberland Trail State Park is Tennessee’s only “linear” state park that offers over 210 miles of rugged hiking through ridges, gorges, waterfalls, and swimming holes. As a work in progress, the trail will eventually exceed 300 miles when all sections are connected. The picturesque Blue Hole Trail on the North Chickamauga Creek State Park is rocky but doable for most.